Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
